{"title":"Non-Quarantined Livestock","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe same livestock, as-arrived from our suppliers — priced for hobbyists who run their own quarantine, and the tier that goes home now.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eNon-quarantined animals carry a 1-hour DOA guarantee only — no refunds, returns, or credits beyond that. If you keep a proper quarantine setup at home, this is the honest way to save real money. And if you need livestock this week, this is the tier to buy: quarantined animals are quarantined to order and take up to 60–90 days. But if your new fish are going straight into an established display tank and you can wait, spend the difference on the Quarantined version — treating a display tank costs more than the premium ever will.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"scarlet-hawkfish-neocirrhites-armatus","title":"Scarlet Hawkfish (Neocirrhites armatus)","description":"\u003cp\u003eHawkfish don't have a swim bladder, which sounds like a design flaw until you realize what they do with that limitation: instead of swimming freely through the water column, they perch — using their thickened lower pectoral fin rays almost like tiny legs to prop themselves on a rock or coral branch and watch for food to drift by. \u003cem\u003eNeocirrhites armatus\u003c\/em\u003e, the Scarlet Hawkfish, is easily one of the most vividly colored small fish in the trade, and it spends most of its day doing exactly that from a perch in the rockwork, darting out for a meal and returning to the same spot. The behavior is equal parts endearing and effective.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt's reef safe with corals and generally peaceful toward fish, though it will treat small ornamental shrimp — peppermints, sexy shrimp, cleaner shrimp juveniles — as a snack given the chance. Its native habitat runs across the Hawaiian Islands and the broader tropical Pacific, typically in areas with substantial coral cover and moderate-to-strong current where it can perch in the flow and ambush whatever gets pushed past.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eHardy once established, and one of the more forgiving small reef fish for someone stepping into saltwater for the first time. Feed frozen mysis, brine, and other meaty foods — it's a visual feeder and will take prepared foods readily.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocirrhites armatus\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hawaiian Islands and tropical Pacific — outer reef slopes and coral-rich zones with moderate to strong current\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–80°F · Salinity 1.020–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; needs open rockwork perches and visual sightlines\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore — frozen mysis, brine shrimp, other meaty foods; visual feeder that takes prepared foods readily\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reef safe with corals; peaceful with most fish; will eat small ornamental shrimp\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide multiple elevated perching spots in the rockwork — a hawkfish without good perch options becomes stressed and reclusive. Flat rock surfaces and branching corals at mid-tank height are ideal.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50127393652973,"sku":"SWFSH-SCARLE-HAWKFI","price":62.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg_95558_FlameHawkfish_12db542a-f1ae-4d7c-b1c9-4e5b7634a3dd.jpg?v=1786966991"},{"product_id":"green-bubble-coral-plerogyra-sinuosa","title":"Green Bubble Coral","description":"\u003cp\u003eBubble Coral (\u003cem\u003ePlerogyra sinuosa\u003c\/em\u003e) gets its name from the grape-like, fluid-filled sacs it inflates during the day to maximize surface area for its symbiotic zooxanthellae, then deflates at night to expose long sweeper tentacles used for feeding and for stinging anything that drifts too close. That inflate-and-deflate cycle is worth understanding before placement — it needs genuine breathing room, because those nighttime tentacles reach considerably further than the deflated skeleton suggests, and they carry a real sting that will damage neighboring corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn terms of difficulty, Bubble Coral sits at the more forgiving end of the LPS spectrum. It tolerates a real range of lighting and doesn't demand the same precision as SPS, but it does have a few non-negotiable requirements: low to moderate direct flow (too much and the bubbles won't inflate properly, which is both a visual and a biological problem), stable alkalinity and calcium, and enough space that it can expand fully without touching neighbors. Bottom to mid-tank placement on sandy substrate or stable rock suits it well.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFeed it at night when the sweeper tentacles are extended — small pieces of frozen meaty food placed near the tentacles will be captured and transferred to the central mouth.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Plerogyra sinuosa\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — sheltered reef slopes, lagoon walls, and semi-turbid environments at 10–30m depth\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4 · Alkalinity 8–11 dKH · Calcium 380–450 ppm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; bottom-to-mid tank placement with several inches of clearance from neighbors\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate — metal halide or LED at low intensity; too much light causes bubbles to retract\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to gentle — direct high flow prevents proper bubble inflation\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Photosynthetic; target-feed meaty foods at night when sweeper tentacles are extended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e A Bubble Coral that isn't inflating its bubbles during the day is telling you something is wrong — first check flow (usually too high) and lighting (usually too intense). Stable water chemistry and low-turbulence placement are the two levers that matter most.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Small (1–2 in.) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337224949997,"sku":"CORAL-BUBBLE-GREEN-SM","price":147.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium (2–4 in.) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337224982765,"sku":"CORAL-BUBBLE-GREEN-MD","price":147.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large (4+ in.) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337225015533,"sku":"CORAL-BUBBLE-GREEN-LG","price":147.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/1520607__56185.1776223045.jpg?v=1787427160"},{"product_id":"candy-cane-coral","title":"Candy Cane Coral","description":"\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Coral (\u003cem\u003eCaulastrea furcata\u003c\/em\u003e), also called Trumpet Coral, grows in tight clusters of tube-like corallites that each end in a fleshy polyp striped in a way that genuinely does resemble the candy it's named for. It's one of the more forgiving LPS corals for a newer reef keeper — tolerant of a real range of lighting and flow conditions, and it'll steadily bud new heads over time, slowly turning one small frag into an actual colony.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn its natural range across the Indo-Pacific, it occupies a similar ecological niche to most medium-depth LPS: moderate lighting, moderate flow, stable parameters, and enough space to expand laterally without running into competition. Like most large polyp stony corals it carries a sting — mild by LPS standards but still enough to cause tissue recession in anything it grows against — so give it a few inches of clearance in every direction as the colony expands.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt's photosynthetic and doesn't require regular target feeding to survive, but occasional meaty food (frozen mysis, Reef Roids) placed near extended polyps will noticeably accelerate head budding and overall growth rate.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caulastrea furcata\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — shallow to mid-depth reef zones, often in moderate turbidity and variable flow\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4 · Alkalinity 8–11 dKH · Calcium 380–450 ppm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; mid-tank placement with clearance from neighbors\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate — forgiving across a wide PAR range (50–150 µmol)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate indirect flow; direct high flow causes polyps to retract\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Photosynthetic; benefits from weekly target-feeding to accelerate head budding\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e New heads bud from between existing corallites — look for small white bumps between polyps as an early sign of colony expansion. This is the coral equivalent of a green light on your parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50151794147565,"sku":"CORAL-CANDY-CANE","price":56.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/original_069952c9-f1e3-45b1-afa0-1cd321ce48e5.jpg?v=1787398014"},{"product_id":"marimo-moss-ball","title":"Marimo Moss Ball (Aegagropila linnaei)","description":"\u003cp\u003eMarimo isn't a moss at all, despite the name everyone uses for it — it's actually a ball-shaped colony of \u003cem\u003eAegagropila linnaei\u003c\/em\u003e, a filamentous green alga that grows into that spherical shape naturally in a handful of still and slow-moving lakes worldwide, most notably Lake Akan in Japan and Lake Mývatn in Iceland. In the wild, it rolls slowly along the lake bottom, rotating just enough that light reaches every side evenly, which is how it maintains the spherical shape rather than growing asymmetrically toward the light source like a typical algae cluster would.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn a tank, it's about as close to a completely undemanding freshwater plant-analog as the hobby offers: low light is fine, no substrate or fertilizer needed, and shrimp actively graze on the biofilm that accumulates on its surface, which makes it pull double duty as both décor and feeding station. It's one of the few aquarium organisms you can genuinely neglect and have it not just survive but look better over time as it continues to grow, if slowly — roughly 5mm of diameter per year under good conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGive it an occasional gentle squeeze and rotation under water to clean out debris and maintain its spherical shape, and it'll sit happily in a tank for years or decades. The care is less aquarium husbandry and more basic object maintenance.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Aegagropila linnaei\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lake Akan (Japan), Lake Mývatn (Iceland), and a handful of other high-latitude cold and cool-temperate lakes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 50–75°F (prefers cooler water; avoid sustained temps above 77°F) · pH 6.0–8.0 · Any hardness\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate — direct high-intensity light causes browning; indirect or filtered light preferred\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e Any size; works in nano tanks, shrimp tanks, and planted communities\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Photosynthetic alga; no supplemental feeding needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e If a marimo starts losing its spherical shape or developing brown patches, rotate it and ensure it's getting indirect low-intensity light from multiple angles. 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That deep red coloring, broken by a dark lateral stripe and iridescent reflections, intensifies measurably with good water quality and a darker substrate. A group of fifteen or twenty moving together reads less like individual fish and more like a single shifting cloud of color.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eNative to blackwater peat swamps in Borneo, \u003cem\u003eB. brigittae\u003c\/em\u003e evolved in some of the softest, most acidic water in the hobby — pH under 5 in wild populations, with near-zero hardness and heavy tannin staining. They don't require those extremes in captivity, but they genuinely do better in softer, slightly acidic water than in hard alkaline tap. RO water remineralized with a soft-water profile (or plain aged tap if you're lucky enough to have soft water) and light botanical tannin supplementation will show the best coloration and longest-lived specimens.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDespite the delicate look, they're genuinely hardy once established in appropriate water. Their tiny mouths mean tankmates need to be equally small and completely peaceful — anything that treats a Chili Rasbora as a snack, will.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Boraras brigittae\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blackwater peat swamps of southwestern Borneo — heavily tannin-stained, extremely soft and acidic water\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–82°F · pH 5.5–7.0 (softer and more acidic = better color) · GH 1–6\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5 gal minimum; best in a planted nano tank with dark substrate; groups of 10+ recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore — micro-pellets and small crushed flake; supplement with baby brine shrimp and micro-worms\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful nano fish; must be kept with equally tiny, non-predatory species only\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Coloration is directly tied to water quality and stress. In hard, alkaline, or brightly lit tanks, Chili Rasboras turn pale and stay pale. Dark substrate, low light, and soft slightly-acidic water are the three biggest drivers of the red color you see in photos.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Individual","offer_id":50151817019629,"sku":"FWFSH-CHILI-RASBOR-IND","price":4.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"6-Pack","offer_id":50339836297453,"sku":"FWFSH-CHILI-RASBOR-6PK","price":31.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"12-Pack","offer_id":50339836330221,"sku":"FWFSH-CHILI-RASBOR-12PK","price":63.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/1920px-Boraras_brigittae.jpg?v=1787397828"},{"product_id":"albino-bristlenose-pleco","title":"Albino Bristlenose Pleco (Ancistrus sp.)","description":"\u003cp\u003eBristlenose Plecos get their name from the fleshy, branching bristles that grow across the face of mature males — a display structure used to attract females and intimidate rival males, not unlike a very committed mustache. This albino line trades the usual mottled brown coloring for a pale pink-and-white body with red eyes, purely cosmetic, since the algae-eating, glass-cleaning behavior underneath is identical to any other Bristlenose.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eAncistrus sp.\u003c\/em\u003e (a genus covering a complex of related species difficult to distinguish morphologically) stays considerably smaller than a Common Pleco, rarely pushing past 4–5 inches, which makes it one of the few plecos actually well-suited to an average-sized community tank instead of one that'll eventually outgrow it. They're peaceful, largely nocturnal, and spend their waking hours working over glass, substrate, and driftwood surfaces with a sucker-like mouth built for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGive them access to driftwood — many \u003cem\u003eAncistrus\u003c\/em\u003e rasp on wood as part of their digestion, and a tank without any leaves them missing a genuine dietary component. They'll survive without it but thrive with it. Algae wafers, blanched zucchini, and other vegetable matter supplement their natural grazing effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ancistrus sp. 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Originally from the Malili Lakes system in Sulawesi, Indonesia — a unique freshwater ecosystem isolated long enough to develop its own distinct fauna — they carry an ancient-lineage strangeness that makes them genuinely different from the garden-variety pond snails most people picture when they hear \"aquarium snail.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eUnusually for a snail, they're livebearers, giving birth to a small number of fully formed young in a thin egg membrane rather than laying exposed egg masses. Population growth stays slow and manageable — you'll never wake up to a Tylomelania explosion the way you will with ramshorns or bladder snails. They're peaceful algae and detritus grazers that move slowly and deliberately, cleaning up biofilm and leftover food without touching healthy plant tissue.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Sulawesi origin matters for water chemistry: these snails evolved in hard, alkaline, warm water unlike the soft blackwater preference of many other Sulawesi endemics. They do well in neutral to slightly alkaline, moderately hard water — standard community tank parameters work fine.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Tylomelania sp. 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This is small polyp stony coral (\u003cem\u003eAcropora\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) — the benchmark genus of the SPS world — and it wants strong stable lighting, vigorous turbulent flow, and calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium held tightly in range. The margins are narrower than LPS; a swing that a hammer or torch coral would shrug off can bleach or kill an Acropora that was looking perfect the day before.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe reward for getting it right is genuinely fast growth and branching skeletal architecture that no LPS or soft coral can replicate, plus color that intensifies under the right lighting spectrum rather than just surviving it. Pink Acropora under blue-heavy reef LED tends to shift toward violet or orange depending on the specific morphology — the coral's fluorescent proteins respond to different wavelengths in ways that make the exact color difficult to predict from a photo taken under different lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis isn't a first coral. 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Both parents fan the eggs with their fins, pick off unfertilized ones, and move the wriggle-phase fry to pre-dug pits in the substrate before guiding them as free-swimming fry. 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They evolved this adaptation in the seasonally oxygen-depleted rice paddies, swamps, and sluggish ditches of Southeast Asia, where dissolved oxygen can drop low enough that gill breathing alone won't sustain a fish through the dry season.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey're also one of the very few aquarium fish that produce an audible sound — a soft croaking or clicking noise made during territorial displays and courtship, generated by modified pectoral fin muscles vibrating the swimbladder. It's faint enough that you need a quiet room to catch it, but it's genuinely there, and once you know what to listen for you'll hear it regularly. The sound is most prominent when males are posturing at each other or displaying to a female.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSmall, peaceful, and content in a quiet corner of a planted tank, they're a particularly good pick for a calm nano community that doesn't need another fast-swimming schooling fish. They pair naturally, and a bubble nest built under a broad leaf or at the water surface is a reliable sign that the male is in good condition and ready to breed.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Trichopsis pumila\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Southeast Asia — rice paddies, swamps, slow streams, and shallow ponds across Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 75–82°F · pH 6.0–7.5 · GH 4–15 (soft to moderately hard)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5 gal minimum; planted nano tank or calm community; must have access to surface air\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore — micro-pellets, small crushed flake, frozen daphnia and baby brine shrimp\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful; best with similarly small, non-aggressive species; males may display at each other but rarely cause serious injury\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never fully seal a labyrinth fish tank without an air gap at the surface — they must breathe atmospheric air and will drown if unable to reach the surface. 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They recognize individual keepers, learn feeding routines quickly, and respond to attention in a way most fish don't.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMales build bubble nests at the surface as part of their natural breeding behavior even with no female present — a floating cluster of mucus-coated air bubbles anchored under plant leaves or floating plants. This is completely normal and a reliable sign of a healthy, content male. A betta that builds nests is a betta in good condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eWild \u003cem\u003eB. splendens\u003c\/em\u003e originated in shallow rice paddies, irrigation ditches, and slow floodplain streams across Thailand and surrounding countries — warm, often oxygen-poor water where labyrinth breathing became an evolutionary advantage. Famously intolerant of other males and often other long-finned males of any species, but plenty of quiet, fin-safe community tankmates (small corydoras, small tetras, snails, shrimp) work alongside a single male without issue.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Betta splendens\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam — rice paddies, slow streams, flood plains, and irrigation canals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 76–82°F · pH 6.0–7.5 · GH 5–20 (adaptable)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5 gal minimum (10 gal preferred); must have access to surface air; no tight lids without ventilation gaps\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore — quality betta pellets as staple; supplement with frozen bloodworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Males must be kept alone or with carefully chosen fin-safe tankmates; no other male bettas\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Bettas in cold water (below 76°F) are slow, prone to illness, and rarely display. 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They're prized specifically for how much visual texture and patterning they pack into a slow-growing, relatively low-maintenance package.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eModerate light works best for chalice corals, and this runs against the usual \"more light is better\" instinct reef keepers tend to develop. Too much intensity — especially from a newly upgraded LED running at full power — causes bleaching and color loss, not improved growth. Many of the most dramatically colored chalice morphs look their best at 80–150 µmol PAR, which is significantly lower than what you'd run for SPS. Mid to lower tank placement suits them well.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDirect high flow is also counterproductive — chalice corals want gentle, indirect water movement that removes waste from the surface without pummeling the tissue. Give it space to encrust outward without running into neighbors, and it'll reward patience with one of the more strikingly patterned corals in the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Echinophyllia sp. \/ Echinopora sp. 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They're peaceful toward other species, most active after lights-out, and will often claim a specific cave or driftwood overhang as a personal territory to return to.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDriftwood is important with this genus specifically, not just as décor: many Peckoltia and related loricariids rasp on wood as a functional part of their digestion, not just incidentally. A tank without driftwood leaves them missing a component of their natural dietary fiber. Supplement their grazing with algae wafers, blanched zucchini, and other vegetables.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peckoltia vittata\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Amazon River basin, South America — fast-flowing rocky tributaries with wood and leaf-litter accumulation\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–82°F · pH 5.5–7.5 · GH 2–15 (soft to moderately hard)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; provide driftwood and caves; appreciate structured flow\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore\/omnivore — algae wafers, blanched vegetables, driftwood for rasping; occasional protein\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful with community fish; territorial toward own species in limited space\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Tiger Plecos are largely nocturnal and will spend daylight hours hidden in a cave or behind driftwood — this is normal, not a sign of illness. 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In a mature reef with a well-developed sand bed, this is genuinely useful work: cucumbers process and turn over sediment that would otherwise become an anoxic nitrate factory under the rock.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe one real caution with sea cucumbers as a group deserves serious attention: many species carry holothurins — potent defensive toxins sequestered in their tissue — that are released when the animal is severely stressed, injured, or dies in the tank unnoticed. Holothurin release in a closed system can kill fish and invertebrates rapidly. The risk is manageable: keep an eye on the animal, don't rough-handle it, avoid putting it in a tank where it's likely to get shredded by aggressive inhabitants, and don't let it die undetected in a power head intake. In a stable, established reef without aggressive tankmates, the risk is low and the sand-processing benefit is real.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Holothuria sp. 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Check on yours regularly — a healthy cucumber is actively moving and plowing. One that's retracted, deflated, or stationary for days needs investigation before it becomes a tank-wide chemical event.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50153134883053,"sku":"SWINV-TIGER-TAIL","price":53.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg-86525-Sea-Cuc-Tiger-Tail.jpg?v=1786966813"},{"product_id":"hairy-hermit-crab","title":"Hairy Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eHairy Hermit Crabs (\u003cem\u003eDardanus\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) are named for the dense, bristle-like hairs covering their legs — a likely adaptation that helps break up their outline against algae-covered rock, functioning as natural camouflage in the same way a ghillie suit disrupts a silhouette. In the reef, they're generalist scavengers that clean up leftover food, pick at nuisance algae, and turn over detritus in rockwork crevices that other cleanup crew members don't bother reaching.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eLike every hermit crab, they need an appropriately-sized shell to live in and they'll outgrow their current one periodically. The solution is simple but important: keep a handful of spare empty shells of varying sizes in the tank so they can upgrade without needing to evict a snail to do it. A hermit crab actively bothering snails is almost always a housing problem — the right size shell available solves it. Hardy, low-maintenance, and genuinely useful cleanup crew once that detail is covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey'll opportunistically pick at soft corals if underfed, so ensure scavenging opportunities are adequate. 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This single step eliminates most hermit-related tankmate conflicts and is the most frequently overlooked part of hermit crab care.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Individual \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50153135079661,"sku":"SWINV-HAIRY-HERMIT-IND","price":38.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"5-Pack \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50339104817389,"sku":"SWINV-HAIRY-HERMIT-5PK","price":172.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"10-Pack \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50339104850157,"sku":"SWINV-HAIRY-HERMIT-10PK","price":321.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/IMG_0064.jpg?v=1782360940"},{"product_id":"decorator-crab","title":"Decorator Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eDecorator Crabs (\u003cem\u003eCamposcia retusa\u003c\/em\u003e and related species) do exactly what the name promises: they actively attach living sponges, algae, colonial tunicates, and other small organisms to hooked Velcro-like bristles covering their carapace and legs, building a genuine, growing camouflage suit out of whatever material is available in their environment. It's not passive debris accumulation — the crab selects and places material deliberately, and a decorator moved to a new tank will often re-decorate itself using locally available organisms within 24–48 hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe biology behind this is fascinating: the hooked cuticular projections (\u003cem\u003esetae\u003c\/em\u003e) on their exoskeleton function like biological Velcro, holding attached organisms in place. The attached organisms typically remain alive and continue growing, which means a well-established decorator crab is carrying a miniature reef of living organisms on its back — including organisms that weren't there when it arrived.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePeaceful, slow-moving, and one of the more genuinely fascinating behavioral quirks you can observe in a reef cleanup crew. They're not aggressive toward corals, fish, or other invertebrates, and their deliberate, unhurried pace means they rarely disturb settled specimens even when climbing across the rockwork.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Camposcia retusa (and related decorator crab species)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — rubble zones, reef slopes, and sponge-rich habitats across tropical reefs\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–80°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; a reef with diverse living organisms gives the crab material to decorate with\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore scavenger — detritus, algae, and small particulate organic matter; often eats what it collects\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reef safe; peaceful with all species; won't harm corals or fish\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e The decoration behavior is directly tied to camouflage — a decorator crab in a bare or sparsely decorated tank will appear underdressed and stressed. 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These are small polyp stony corals that want strong stable lighting at the high end of the PAR range, vigorous multi-directional flow, and calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium maintained in a tight, consistent band. The margins are narrower than LPS — a parameter swing that a torch or hammer coral would shrug off can initiate tissue recession in an Acropora that looked perfect the day before. SPS corals telegraph stress through tissue recession starting at the base; by the time it's obvious from the top, significant damage has already occurred.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGet the parameters right and growth can be fast enough to notice week over week. 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They're not reef compatible in the usual sense — those tentacles carry a potent sting capable of seriously harming fish and other invertebrates that brush against them, so they're best kept in a species-specific setup or well clear of anything you'd mind losing. A striking, almost otherworldly display animal for the right tank, not a community reef addition.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50153135669485,"sku":"SWINV-TUBE-ANEMON","price":135.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg-81546_Tube_Anemone.jpg?v=1786966733"},{"product_id":"white-specter-crayfish","title":"White Specter Crayfish","description":"\u003cp\u003eWhite Specter Crayfish carry a pale, almost ghostly coloration that sets them apart from the more saturated blues and oranges bred into other ornamental crayfish lines. The effect is striking in a tank — under aquarium light, the near-white body with subtle translucence reads as luminous rather than just light, and it holds that quality better against dark substrates than against pale ones where it washes out. The exact species origin for the \"White Specter\" trade name varies (likely \u003cem\u003eProcambarus\u003c\/em\u003e sp. or \u003cem\u003eCherax\u003c\/em\u003e sp. depending on the line), but the care requirements are consistent with ornamental crayfish broadly.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOmnivorous and opportunistic like every crayfish: they'll forage through substrate, redistribute décor and plants, and consume soft-stemmed aquatic plants without much hesitation. Build the aquascape for it — driftwood, river rock, and hardy plants attached to hardscape rather than planted into substrate. 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Supplement with crushed coral or a mineral additive if your tap water is very soft.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50153135735021,"sku":"FWINV-WHITE-SPECTE","price":40.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/IMG_0120.jpg?v=1782360955"},{"product_id":"mantis-shrimp","title":"Peacock Mantis Shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus)","description":"\u003cp\u003eDespite the name, Mantis Shrimp aren't shrimp at all — they're stomatopods, a separate crustacean order entirely, and they carry two genuinely remarkable pieces of biology for an invertebrate this size. Their eyes contain up to sixteen types of color receptors, compared to three in humans, giving them a visual system scientists still don't fully understand the purpose of, and their raptorial front claws strike with enough speed and force that larger species have been documented cracking aquarium glass. They're intelligent, engaging predators to observe, but genuinely incompatible with a community reef tank, since that same strike will make quick work of snails, crabs, and small fish alike. Species-specific housing only.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50155002167533,"sku":"SWINV-PEACOC-MANTIS","price":187.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg-89388-shrimp.jpg?v=1786966812"},{"product_id":"ocellaris-clownfish","title":"Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe fish that made an entire generation want a saltwater tank, and honestly, it's earned the reputation. Ocellaris Clownfish are about as forgiving as saltwater fish get — tank-bred for generations now, disease-resistant, and completely unbothered by the fact that they're immune to their own host anemone's sting thanks to a mucus coating your fish would probably brag about if it could talk. They'll pair up, they'll host in anemones or just about anything else that resembles one (a powerhead, a piece of rockwork, your patience), and they'll outlive plenty of the \"easier\" fish people buy instead. Reef safe, peaceful with everything except their own kind in too small a tank, and about as close to a sure thing as this hobby offers.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50155011408109,"sku":"SWFSH-OCELLA-CLOWNF","price":45.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/IMG_0141.jpg?v=1782452865"},{"product_id":"white-nudibranch","title":"Berghia Nudibranch (Berghia stephanieae)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Berghia Nudibranch is the reef hobby's go-to natural weapon against Aiptasia, the stinging pest anemones that spread across rock and glass and torment nearby corals. This small sea slug — barely an inch long — eats nothing but Aiptasia, hunting them down after dark and clearing them out with no chemicals, injections, or scraping. It's completely reef safe, harmless to corals, other invertebrates, and fish, and works best added in a small group so they can find each other, breed, and stay ahead of the infestation. The one catch is their strict diet: once the Aiptasia are gone they'll need a fresh supply or a move to another infested tank, since they won't touch anything else. For a stubborn Aiptasia problem, a few Berghia are about the most elegant fix there is.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCare level: Easy · Reef safe: Yes · Diet: Aiptasia anemones only\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50155011637485,"sku":"SWINV-BERGHI-NUDIBR","price":32.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/2858659__05433.1778785199.jpg?v=1787427112"},{"product_id":"black-ocellaris-clownfish","title":"Black Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)","description":"\u003cp\u003eA black morph of the classic Ocellaris Clownfish, bred selectively over generations for that deep, almost velvet-black body rather than the usual orange, and it's proof of how much variation captive breeding programs have coaxed out of a single wild species. Every behavior that makes a regular Ocellaris such a staple of the hobby still applies here — same peaceful temperament, same tendency to host in an anemone or anything that resembles one, same total immunity to anemone stings thanks to the mucus coating on their skin. The only real difference is cosmetic, and it's a striking one; the coloring tends to develop and deepen further as the fish matures, so a young specimen may still be finding its final look.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50170954744045,"sku":"SWFSH-BLACK-OCELLA","price":56.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg_91938_Black_White_Ocellaris_0304141_362p.jpg?v=1786967194"},{"product_id":"yellow-head-jawfish","title":"Yellow Head Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons)","description":"\u003cp\u003eJawfish are burrowers, and this one takes it further than most — it excavates and maintains its own burrow in the sand, shoring up the walls with bits of shell and rubble the way a mason picks stones, and it will spend most of its life hovering just above that burrow, ready to duck backward into it at the first sign of trouble. That vertical, tail-down hovering posture is genuinely unlike how most fish swim, and it's part of what makes jawfish such an endearing oddball in the trade. They need several inches of fine sand to actually build a proper burrow, plus rubble mixed in to reinforce it, so a bare-bottom or shallow-sand tank isn't going to let this fish do what it's wired to do.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Wild-Caught","offer_id":50193476550893,"sku":"SWFSH-YELLOW-HEAD","price":53.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg71432JawfishYellowhead_79c28f8e-5c11-4433-bf96-775e54cde252.jpg?v=1786966813"},{"product_id":"seahorse","title":"Lined Seahorse (Hippocampus erectus)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Lined Seahorse (Hippocampus erectus) is one of the hardier, more adaptable seahorses in the hobby and the species most often available captive-bred, which makes it a better starting point than most of its wild-caught relatives. Like all seahorses, the male carries the developing young in a specialized brood pouch through pregnancy — one of the only true examples of male pregnancy in the animal kingdom. They're slow, deliberate ambush feeders that can't compete with fast, aggressive tankmates for food, so they do best in a species-specific or seahorse-only setup with plenty of low-flow perching spots. 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That dark blue-black body covered in small gold spots, with orange-red banded fins on males that deepen during displays, looks genuinely more like a piece of jewelry than a fish, which explains the rapid adoption.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDespite the fragile appearance, they're genuinely hardy once established in appropriate conditions — the fragility reputation largely traces to newly-imported wild specimens before captive breeding stabilized the trade. Tank-raised \u003cem\u003eD. margaritatus\u003c\/em\u003e adapt readily to standard soft-to-moderately-hard freshwater and eat eagerly. Males intensify their colors dramatically during courtship displays, flaring fins at rivals and females in a way that shows off that banded pattern to full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey're best kept in groups in a heavily planted nano tank. 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It's been a staple of the reef hobby for decades precisely because it delivers high visual impact at a relatively forgiving care threshold: tolerant of a real range of lighting intensity and flow patterns, and slower to show stress than most SPS corals when parameters drift briefly.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eLike its Euphyllia relatives (hammer, frogspawn), it carries a genuine sting and uses sweeper tentacles extended at night to maintain space around the colony. Give it a few inches of clearance in every direction from its expected growth path, because it will grow — healthy Torch Coral under good conditions adds measurable new polyp heads over weeks and months, slowly building from a small frag into a substantial colony. Those sweeper tentacles will sting anything they reach, including corals you thought were safely out of range before the colony grew.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTorch Corals in the wild occupy Indo-Pacific reef slopes and walls where they extend into moderate current, which translates well to mid-tank placement with indirect, moderate flow in captivity.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Euphyllia glabrescens\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — reef slopes, walls, and lagoon edges at 3–30m depth\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4 · Alkalinity 8–11 dKH · Calcium 380–450 ppm\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate — 50–200 µmol PAR; mid-tank placement\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate, indirect; direct high flow causes tentacles to retract and prevents full extension\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; needs clearance from all neighbors\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Photosynthetic; target-feed meaty foods (frozen mysis, Reef Roids) to accelerate growth and polyp budding\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Torch Corals that permanently retract and don't extend their tentacles during the day are usually either in too much direct flow or experiencing an alkalinity issue. 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In their native Andean stream habitats across Colombia and Ecuador, they live in fast, well-oxygenated water, clinging to rock faces in strong current and rasping away at algae and biofilm all day. That stream-adapted lifestyle translates well to aquarium life: they're low-drama, reliably useful algae eaters that don't develop the territorial aggression some larger pleco species do as they age.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey stay on the smaller, milder side of the loricariid family — typically 4–5 inches at full size — which makes them a practical algae-control option for tanks in the 30–75 gallon range where a Common Pleco would be a long-term problem. They're most active during the evening and overnight, but unlike some nocturnal plecos, a well-fed Chaetostoma is visible and active during daylight hours, which is part of the appeal.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGive them driftwood and a variety of surface types. They graze on wood as well as rock and glass, and a tank with only smooth surfaces limits their behavioral range and their foraging efficiency. Supplement natural grazing with algae wafers, blanched zucchini, and occasionally cucumber.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Chaetostoma sp. 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Like all zoanthid colonies, what looks like individual flowers is actually a field of genetically identical clonal polyps connected by a shared tissue mat, budding off new heads as the colony spreads across rock.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eCare-wise, zoanthids are about as forgiving as reef corals get — they tolerate a genuine range of lighting from low PAR shaded spots to moderate-high output, handle variable flow, and tend to outcompete nuisance algae for real estate once established. That tolerance makes them an excellent starting coral for someone entering the reef hobby, and an excellent space-filler for established systems building out rock coverage.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOne caution that applies to the entire Zoanthus and Palythoa family: some individuals and species produce palytoxin — one of the more potent marine toxins known. The risk during normal care is low but real. Handle frags with gloves, keep hands away from eyes and mouth during maintenance, and don't squirt zoanthids with a baster or jet of water that could aerosolize tank water near your face.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Zoanthus sp. 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The fluorescent protein response in well-lit specimens is strong enough that you can pick this morph out from across the room under reef lighting, which is exactly the point for anyone building a zoanthid garden with deliberate color blocking.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eCare tracks every other zoanthid: genuinely wide tolerance for light and flow, steady spreading growth across rock once established, and a resilience to parameter swings that most other coral families don't share. They're one of the better choices for a first-time reef keeper building out an initial coral display, and equally useful for experienced reefers filling in rock surfaces or building out a dedicated softie section.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe standard palytoxin caution applies to this and every other zoanthid. 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In the wild, these fish cruise slow, turbid backwaters and floodplain lakes, hunting by sight and ambushing smaller fish and invertebrates with a speed that contradicts their laid-back cruising pace. In a tank, they bring that same predatory intelligence to the glass and direct it at you — Oscars learn to recognize individual people, associate them with food, and will come up for hand-feeding within weeks of settling in. That's not anthropomorphizing, that's just how their brain works.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey grow fast and they grow large. A healthy Oscar can hit 10–12\" in its first two years, which means the 75-gallon minimum is a starting point, not a long-term plan. A 125+ gallon single-specimen or species-compatible setup is where they truly thrive. They're messy eaters and heavy waste producers — biological filtration needs to be seriously oversized and water changes consistent, because ammonia spikes will shut down their immune system fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eStock with fish large enough not to be a meal: other large cichlids, armored catfish like \u003cem\u003eSynodontis\u003c\/em\u003e or large plecos, or similar-sized species with the reflexes to avoid getting cornered. 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A single cory is a fish that spends its time looking for company; a group of six or more is a coordinated bottom-cleaning crew that visibly schools and communicates through fin posture in a way that's genuinely interesting to watch. The gold laser grade pairs that social behavior with a color that reads as surprisingly vivid at substrate level where most golden-toned fish never venture.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Corydoras sp. 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Coarse gravel or dirty, high-nitrate water will erode barbels over time — fine sand substrate and regular water changes are the two most important husbandry factors for this genus.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Medium \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337333739757,"sku":"FJCOR18095","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium \/ 6-Pack \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50339815522541,"sku":"FJCOR18095N-6PK","price":53.39,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium \/ 12-Pack \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50339815555309,"sku":"FJCOR18095N-12PK","price":92.59,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/GoldLaserOsteogasterwebsite.jpg?v=1787463657"},{"product_id":"rainbow-garra-large","title":"Rainbow Garra","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eGarra\u003c\/em\u003e species are the same genus behind \"doctor fish\" — the small freshwater cyprinids used commercially to graze dead skin off the feet of spa customers, a service made possible by a specialized ventral sucker disc that lets them clamp onto hard surfaces in fast current and work them over methodically. The Rainbow Garra brings that same biomechanical toolkit, with a more colorful dress: iridescent blue-green and orange tones across a compact, torpedo-shaped body adapted for life in fast-flowing water.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn a tank, they're perpetual-motion algae grazers — give them rock surfaces, driftwood, and decent water movement and they'll work the same patch repeatedly, rarely sitting still. They're most active and show the best color in aquariums with meaningful flow; a still-water setup dulls their color and behavior noticeably. Compatible with most community fish their own size, though they can become territorial with their own kind in tanks where there isn't enough rock territory to go around.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Garra sp. (Rainbow Garra; several species sold under this common name, including G. flavatra)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fast-flowing rocky rivers and streams of Southeast Asia — Myanmar, Thailand, and surrounding highland stream systems\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–79°F · pH 6.5–7.5 · GH 5–15 · Good water movement preferred\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal minimum; rocky aquascape with strong current; cover the tank — these fish jump\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore\/omnivore — algae, biofilm, algae wafers, blanched vegetables; occasional sinking protein\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-territorial with own kind; peaceful with most similarly-sized community fish\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Rainbow Garras kept in low-flow tanks lose both their color saturation and much of their behavioral interest. A powerhead or strong canister filter return pointed along the glass is the single most impactful environmental change you can make for this species. Match the habitat — fast highland streams — and they're a completely different fish.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Large \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337333838061,"sku":"FKCAT0195","price":36.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/Panda_Garra.jpg?v=1785244659"},{"product_id":"electric-blue-acara-xl","title":"Electric Blue Acara","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Electric Blue Acara is a captive-developed cichlid — likely a hybrid line derived from \u003cem\u003eAndinoacara pulcher\u003c\/em\u003e and related Andinoacara species — that managed to concentrate more iridescent blue-green into a compact body than most natural species bother with. Under good lighting, the scales shift between blue, green, and teal as the angle changes, a structural iridescence that makes even a modestly sized specimen a standout in any planted community.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eWhat makes this fish genuinely useful beyond its looks is temperament. Cichlids have a well-earned reputation for attitude problems, but the Electric Blue Acara mostly missed that memo. It'll hold its own and defend territory, especially during spawning, but it's considerably more civil toward tankmates than comparably-sized South American cichlids, and it tends to leave plants alone — a meaningful consideration in a planted setup. It's the fish we recommend when someone wants their first real cichlid without dismantling everything they built.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt pairs readily, and a bonded pair will spawn on flat surfaces — smooth stones, broad leaves, or bare glass floor — and both parents guard eggs and wriggle-phase fry with real commitment. Watching a cichlid pair work together to raise young is one of the more compelling behaviors in freshwater keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Andinoacara sp. \"Electric Blue\"\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Captive-developed; wild Andinoacara pulcher from Colombia and Venezuela\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 68–82°F · pH 6.5–7.5 · Hardness 3–20 dGH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gal for a pair; 55+ gal for a community\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore — quality cichlid pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, occasional blanched vegetables\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful for a cichlid; best with similarly-sized, non-aggressive tankmates\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Give them a flat smooth rock or slate tile at the bottom — they'll use it as a spawning site whether you planned for it or not, and having a designated spot keeps the pair calmer overall.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"XL \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337333903597,"sku":"FPCIC0827","price":40.33,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Small\/Medium (1.5-2\") \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337333936365,"sku":"FPCIC0824","price":13.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium\/Large (2.5\") \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337333969133,"sku":"FPCIC0825","price":30.04,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large (3.5\") \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337334001901,"sku":"FPCIC0826","price":40.33,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/original_7cef868c-de78-4dd9-b809-352d942a907f.jpg?v=1787399408"},{"product_id":"h-f-lyretail-blue-ram-gt","title":"H\/F Lyretail Blue Ram","description":"\u003cp\u003eGerman Blue Rams are the most vividly colored dwarf cichlid most freshwater keepers will ever encounter — a species that packs an almost bewildering amount of color into a fish that tops out at 2.5 inches. 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Alkaline hard water stresses them even if the temperature is right, and ammonia or nitrite spikes hit dwarf cichlids fast and hard.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGet the chemistry right and you'll have a fish that pairs naturally, spawns readily, and guards eggs and fry with the full cichlid parenting intensity you'd expect from a much larger fish. A breeding pair in a planted tank is genuinely one of the finest things freshwater keeping has to offer.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mikrogeophagus ramirezi\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Orinoco River system, Venezuela and Colombia — warm, shallow savanna pools and streams\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 78–86°F (warm water is non-negotiable) · pH 5.5–7.0 · GH 2–8 (soft water preferred)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 15–20 gal for a pair; 30+ gal for a community\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore — micro-pellets, frozen daphnia, baby brine shrimp, cyclops\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful except when guarding spawn; keep with small, non-aggressive species\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not keep these fish in a cold community tank. The most common cause of ram death in home aquariums is running them at 72–74°F while assuming that's close enough. It isn't — and the decline is slow enough that it looks like it's working until it very much isn't.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"GT \/ Individual","offer_id":50337334034669,"sku":"FRDWF4008","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg89938GermanBlueRam_76f10825-559b-40db-83c9-dfb2643c3dd3.jpg?v=1784694138"},{"product_id":"h-f-lyretail-gold-ram-xl","title":"H\/F Lyretail Gold Ram","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Gold Ram is a selectively bred xanthic morph of \u003cem\u003eMikrogeophagus ramirezi\u003c\/em\u003e — melanophores suppressed, letting the warm golden-yellow undertones of the base coloring come through without competing blue and iridescent pigment. The H\/F (High-Fin) Lyretail strain adds elongated dorsal rays and a lyre-shaped tail, producing a fish that looks like hammered gold leaf shaped into a dwarf cichlid.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eCare requirements are identical to the standard German Blue Ram, and that's worth knowing — because rams in any color form carry demands that catch people off guard. They need warm water (78–86°F is the real target), soft and slightly acidic chemistry, and impeccably clean conditions. The gold coloration is purely cosmetic; the fish underneath is just as sensitive as any other ram. They'll pair naturally, spawn on flat surfaces, and guard fry with the same intensity a full-sized cichlid would, which is one of the more charming mismatches in the freshwater hobby.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe gold morph reads as warm and jewel-like under full-spectrum lighting — a different aesthetic than the blue. 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Rams don't show temperature stress immediately — they decline slowly and then suddenly, which is the most dangerous kind of husbandry mistake because it looks fine right until it doesn't.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"XL \/ Individual","offer_id":50337334100205,"sku":"FRDWF4507","price":22.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg_26115_German_Gold_Ram_87a03c51-9ba2-4130-afa0-f0527ac6af4b.jpg?v=1784694138"},{"product_id":"mini-mex-blue-lobster-small-0-5","title":"Mini Mex Blue Lobster (Cambarellus patzcuarensis)","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCambarellus patzcuarensis\u003c\/em\u003e is a Mexican dwarf crayfish, and the electric-blue color morph is a selectively bred line from a species native to Lake Pátzcuaro in the Michoacán highlands — the same lake and species as the CPO, with the blue breeding selection emphasizing a different pigment expression. At full size, barely larger than a big shrimp, it packs the full behavioral complexity of a crayfish into a body that can actually work in a 5-gallon tank without overwhelming it.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDon't mistake \"dwarf\" for \"friendly.\" The territorial streak of a full-size crayfish is present and operational at 1.5 inches — it'll claim real estate, defend it, and make a genuine attempt on anything smaller or slower that wanders in range, particularly around molt time when both vulnerability and aggression tend to spike simultaneously. Stock it with fish large enough to stay out of the claws or fast enough to avoid them.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eLike all crayfish, it molts its entire exoskeleton periodically to grow, going soft and vulnerable for 24–48 hours afterward. 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It's one of the more dramatic ontogenetic color changes in the surgeonfish family, and watching a juvenile develop into its adult livery is part of the appeal for keepers who buy this species young.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAs adults they're large, active surgeonfish that need real room — 150+ gallons is the genuine floor for a single adult to swim comfortably and express normal ranging behavior. They're constantly grazing, which is the trait that makes them valuable in large reef systems where algae control is an ongoing requirement rather than an occasional intervention. Like every surgeonfish they carry a sharp scalpel blade at the caudal peduncle, used primarily in territorial disputes with other tangs and rarely deployed against unrelated species.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eNative to the Indo-Pacific on open reef flats and rubble zones at moderate depths, \u003cem\u003eA. olivaceus\u003c\/em\u003e is a robust, long-lived fish that rewards the appropriate tank size commitment with years of active, visible reef grazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Acanthurus olivaceus\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — shallow reef flats, rubble zones, and seagrass margins from the Indian Ocean to the central Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 150 gal minimum; open swimming space critical for this active species\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore — nori seaweed, herbivore pellets, algae-based foods; supplement with meaty foods occasionally\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-aggressive with other tangs; reef safe with corals and most invertebrates\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e The yellow juvenile coloration fades and the orange shoulder develops gradually — this is normal development, not a disease. Juveniles acquired at 3–4\" will take 6–18 months to fully express adult coloration depending on diet quality and water conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Large Adult \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337406681325,"sku":"STANO3056","price":179.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Small\/Medium (2.5-3\") \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337406714093,"sku":"STANO3003","price":185.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/Acanthurus_olivaceus_Gratwicke.jpg?v=1785095994"},{"product_id":"two-spot-goby-medium","title":"Two Spot Goby","description":"\u003cp\u003eTwo Spot Gobies (\u003cem\u003eSignigobius biocellatus\u003c\/em\u003e) get their name from the pair of prominent false eyespots along their dorsal and anal fins — a decoy pattern that draws a predator's strike toward the tail end of the body rather than the actual head, which is a much more survivable place to absorb a bite. The spots are bold enough that the mimicry works reliably: this fish is also thought to mimic the appearance and jerky movement pattern of a scorpionfish, another potential deterrent layered on top of the false eyespot trick.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey're sand-dwellers by nature, hovering low over open substrate and darting for cover at speed the instant anything significantly larger moves nearby. In an established reef with live sand and rubble, they'll claim a small territory around a patch of open bottom, occasionally disappearing into a crevice or an empty shell but spending most of their time in that low, hovering, eyes-forward posture. Hardy, unfussy, and small enough to integrate cleanly into a nano reef without competing with anything for space or resources.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Signigobius biocellatus\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — sheltered reef areas, rubble zones, and sand patches in lagoons and along reef margins\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 72–80°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10 gal minimum; live sand substrate; open sand patches for foraging and hovering\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore — frozen mysis, small meaty foods; picks small crustaceans and zooplankton from sand\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reef safe; peaceful with virtually all species; pairs are possible but same-sex pairs may fight\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Two Spot Gobies that are kept singly may show less of the characteristic hovering-and-darting behavior than pairs. A bonded male-female pair is more active, more visible, and more interesting to observe. Pairs can be difficult to sex externally, so buy two from the same tank and let them sort it out.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Medium \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337406779629,"sku":"SGOBT9904","price":40.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg_71536_Two_Spot_Goby.jpg?v=1784692371"},{"product_id":"blue-hippo-tang-large","title":"Blue Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eParacanthurus hepatus\u003c\/em\u003e is the fish that launched a thousand reef aquariums after Finding Nemo, but the real animal is considerably more interesting than the cartoon version. That electric-blue body with black \"palette\" markings and yellow tail hides a retractable scalpel blade at the caudal peduncle — a keratin-sheathed spine that surgeonfish deploy during territorial disputes — and startled individuals will jump from open-top tanks without warning. They do it fast enough that it looks like the fish teleported out of the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eJuveniles wear the same electric blue with cleaner, sharper black markings; as the fish matures, the markings soften and the black pattern expands slightly. In the wild, juveniles aggregate in branching coral colonies (\u003cem\u003ePocillopora\u003c\/em\u003e, \u003cem\u003eAcropora\u003c\/em\u003e) for shelter, retreating into the coral structure when threatened — behavior that's completely impractical to replicate in captivity but explains why they're naturally skittish in open environments without adequate rockwork refuge.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThey're herbivores that need nori and algae-based foods as the foundation of their diet, not just fish food they happen to accept. A Blue Hippo Tang fed primarily on meaty foods develops HLLE (head and lateral line erosion) over time — the pitted, discolored skin that marks a fish maintained on an inadequate diet.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific name:\u003c\/strong\u003e Paracanthurus hepatus\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific — branching coral zones and reef crests from East Africa to the Pacific, especially common in the Philippines, Indonesia, and the Coral Triangle\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater parameters:\u003c\/strong\u003e Temp 74–82°F · Salinity 1.023–1.026 · pH 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank requirements:\u003c\/strong\u003e 125 gal minimum; 180+ gal preferred; needs extensive swimming room and rockwork refuge\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore — nori seaweed and algae-based foods must form the majority of the diet; supplement with meaty foods\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-aggressive with other tangs; reef safe; provide adequate space to prevent territorial conflict\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHusbandry note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cover open-top tanks. Blue Hippo Tangs jump at high speeds with essentially no warning and will find any gap in screening. This is not a theoretical risk — it's the most common sudden death cause for this species in home aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Small\/Medium (1.5-2\", Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50315560190189,"sku":"STANH2013","price":506.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium (2\"+, Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50315560222957,"sku":"STANH2014","price":506.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium\/Large (3\", Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50315560255725,"sku":"STANH2015","price":621.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large (4\", Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50315560288493,"sku":"STANH2016","price":621.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407729901,"sku":"STANH2006","price":207.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium\/Large (2.5-3\") \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407762669,"sku":"STANH2005","price":207.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"(4.5-5\") \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407795437,"sku":"STANH2007","price":207.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Giant (6\"+) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407828205,"sku":"STANH2008","price":302.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Small (1\", Bali) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407860973,"sku":"STANH2011","price":168.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Small\/Medium (1.5-2\", Bali) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407893741,"sku":"STANH2013","price":168.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium (2\"+, Bali) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407926509,"sku":"STANH2014","price":168.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium\/Large (3\", Bali) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407959277,"sku":"STANH2015","price":207.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large (4\", Bali) \/ Aquacultured\/Captive-Bred","offer_id":50337407992045,"sku":"STANH2016","price":207.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg_73746_Blue_Tang_764d23ea-d7f3-4723-a3d5-088d7e5b9c6b.jpg?v=1784692371"},{"product_id":"copperband-butterflyfish-medium-bali","title":"Copperband Butterflyfish","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Copperband Butterflyfish carries two separate tricks in the same slender body: an elongated snout built to slip into cracks and pick off aiptasia anemones and bristleworms other fish can't reach, and a bold false eyespot near the tail that confuses predators about which end to strike. 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Picky eaters at first in a new tank, so we always confirm ours are eating well before they go home.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCare level: Moderate · Temperament: Peaceful · Max size: ~8\" · Min tank: 75 gal · Diet: Omnivore, meaty foods, pest anemones\/worms\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"YoCamron's Aquatics","offers":[{"title":"Medium (Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337408024813,"sku":"S02","price":549.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium\/Large (Bali) \/ Wild-Caught","offer_id":50337408057581,"sku":"SBUBC7015","price":549.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0806\/1032\/8813\/files\/lg68052CopperbandButterfly_98a6f5b4-6c2c-4bd4-a7ed-6400481b16b8.jpg?v=1784692371"},{"product_id":"halloween-hermit-crab-medium-large","title":"Halloween Hermit Crab (Ciliopagurus strigatus)","description":"\u003cp\u003eCiliopagurus strigatus earns its name honestly — bold orange-and-black banded legs that look like they were dipped in candy corn. 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